Modifications Comment j'ai procédé

Comment rendre un échappement V&H temporairement silencieux Afin de passer le contrôle technique suédois (swedish Bilprovningen), mon pot devait être plus silencieux. N'ayant pas le temps d'acheter de la laine de roche pour remplir le silencieux, j'ai opté pour une solution rapide. J'ai enlevé les entrailles du silencieux, placé un tube de 32 mm de diamètre à son extrémité et placé 2 rivets pop afin qu'il reste en place. Cela fait une substancielle réduction de bruit. Le contrôleur technique a regardé bizarrement mon pot V&H vraiment silencieux. Attention, si vous retirez le tube après une ballade, c'est fichtrement chaud !

Remplacer une couronne de 630 par une 530 C'est plus simple qu'on ne le pense, l'emplacement des vis sur les pignons de GSXR correspond à ceux des GS. Achetez des pignons et une chaîne suffisamment longue pour pouvoir la couoper à dimension. Veillez à avoir le même nombre de dents qu'auparavant, dans mon cas 15 dents sur le petit pignon et 42 sur l'autre. Cela parait bizarre d'avoir un petit pignon à l'arrière mais souvenez vous que seuls le nombre de dents compte. Si vous avez conservé rondelle de calade de votre pignon de boite, vous devrez en acheter ou en fabriquer une de plus petit diamètre. Ceci parce que votre nouveau pignon est d'un diamètre beaucoup plus faible que d'origine, la chaîne pourrait porter sur la rondelle plutot que sur le pignon. Vérifiez que la chaîne est suffisament libre sur toute sa longueur. Pendant que vous y êtes, vérifiez l'alignement des pignons/couronnes. Disposez une règle parallèle à votre pignon de boîte, elle devrait être également parallèle à votre couronne et juste la frôler. S'il y a un décalage, vous devez aligner votre roue arrière. Si la règle touche la couronne, vous devez ajuster la rondelle de calage du pignon en conséquence. Comparaison entre les couronnes de 530 et 630.

Preventing generator from jerking loose. Problem: rapid changes in rpm, such as redlight launches can cause the generator to jerk free, loosening the bolt locking it and the starter clutch to the crankshaft. The best solution is probably to install a Katana generator and stator, they are of a smaller diameter weighing less thus producing less torque. I'm not sure about the Katana setup:s charging abilities and since I couldn't get hold of one I didn't bother to find out. (Read somewhere that the katana output is 14A and the GS produces 18A) Another solution is to polish the mating faces of the generator and crankshaft. I used fine valve lapping compound and ordinary valve lapping techniques until there was a smooth grey appearance on crankshaft and generator indicating the whole surface had been polished. This gives a better contact surface able to withstand the forces involved. My generator has stayed in place since i used this method. Be very careful when handling this kind of abrasive product in an open engine. Protect your engine by covering all openings as well as you can, make perfectly sure you don't leave any residue when cleaning the parts afterwards.

Timing cams This one is a little bit trickier, not difficult but you will have to think about what you are doing. Of course you've got to have slotted sprockets on the camshafts, it will get bloody difficult changing their timing if you don't. You will also need a dial indicator, some way of attaching it in a suitable place, a piston height indicator and a degree wheel that will fit the small end of the crankshaft I clamp a steel plate just behind the steering head with a pair of lockable pliers so I can use my indicator with a magnetic base. A real piston height tool would be nice. I don't have one so I drilled through an old spark plug, chamfered the edges and put in a long enough bolt. It only needs to indicate the uppermost centimeter of piston travel or so. A degree wheel is best purchased at your local dealer, my first one made out of cardboard worked, but . . . Remove valve- and ignitioncover and spark plugs. Check valve adjustment. Install your piston height tool in No1 spark plug hole. Mount your indicator to read on the piston height tool. Mount your degree wheel on the crankshaft and fit a piece of steel wire under a cover bolt to use as a reference. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until your indicator shows the piston has reached its highest position, adjust your degree wheel/steel wire setup so it indicates 0º. This is important, do it carefully. Move your dial indicator so it measures against one of the valve spring washers on No1 intake, zero it or make a note of the reading with the valve closed. Turn the crankshaft until the indicator shows .5mm valve lift, write down the reading (R1) off the degree wheel. Turn the crankshaft again past valve max lift until it returns to the .5mm reading, write down the reading (R2) off the degree wheel. Use the readings R1 and R2 in the following formula: R1 + R2 + 180 / 2 - R1 Example: R1 = 15    R2 = 59 15 +59 +180 = 254 254 / 2 = 127 127 - 15 = 112º If the timing is off you need to loosen the sprocket bolts and turn the crankshaft correspondingly. Recheck timing before you tighten the bolts to specified torque, don't forget to use some Loctite. Move your dial indicator so it measures against one of the valve spring washers on No1 exhaust and do it all over again. For GS1100 80-83 Motospeed recommends 109º/108º respectively for intake/exhaust, Cope Racing recommends 110º/110º. Guess I'll have to try them both sometime.

Installing a regulator/rectifier from a Honda UNDER CONSTRUCTION A simple bolt on that cures a common problem with the old GS bikes.

Manual camchain tensioner UNDER CONSTRUCTION This conversion lets you take control of the cam chain tension. Take the tensioner apart and clean the parts. Drill a XXmm hole in its rear, use a XXmm tap and fit a XXmm long bolt and nut. Cut the rod to XXmm and chamfer the edges. Use a XXmm tap where the adjusting knob used to go and seal the hole with a suitable short bolt. I used some sealant to keep it in place and prevent leakage. Clean everything and mount the rod and spring in the housing, push it in and lock it in place with the lock screw. Screw in the adjusting bolt and mount the whole thing on the cylinders. Loosen the lock screw and lock it in place with its lock nut. Screw in the adjusting bolt until it just touches the rod. Turn the engine over with the starter button but don't let it start. Adjust the tension by turning in the adjusting bolt until the cam chain rattle disappears, go slowly. Lock it in place with the nut when you are satisfied. My adjuster in place.

Si je pouvais enlever mes mains du cambouis, j'aurais une version plus affinée. biker66@home.se